I’ve been visiting the Rockies all my life, and to this day I’m still startled to see them rise 6,000 feet or more from the flat plains and valleys that surround them. In the East, the mountains creep up on you. There are so many foothills around the Appalachians that you really don’t know where the mountains actually begin.
Jackson Hole Airport is located within the boundaries of Grand Teton National Park (sacrilegious as that may seem), and because it doesn’t mess with silly things like jet bridges I was shocked to discover the mountains were right there as I disembarked from my plane as if it was their job is to personally welcome me to Jackson Hole.
Grand Teton National Park is compact enough that you can do a lot there in a short stretch of time, and the mountains are ever present so it’s easy to feel intimate with them. Many people treat a trip to the Tetons as an aside to a larger trip to Yellowstone National Park — I only had two and a half days at the end of the peak season I could devote to it, but my friend Lauren and I managed to get a good sampler. Admittedly, though, my short trip only left me hungry for more.
If you only have a few days to give the Tetons, here’s what I recommend:
Day 1
Pay the Entrance Fee and Drive Teton Park Road and/or Moose-Wilson Road
If you’re staying in Jackson proper and not the park, you’ll enter the park heading north on U.S. 191, the same road that takes you north to Yellowstone. You can experience Grand Teton NP for free by just sticking to U.S. 191 and still get some stunning views, but believe me when I say the ($35 per car as of 2018) entrance fee to drive Teton Park Road is absolutely worth it. If you’re staying in Jackson Hole Village near the ski resort, you should pay the same fee to use Moose-Wilson Road to access the park rather than detour through Jackson to go for free. The pass you receive is valid for seven days.
The fee will pay off in dividends with far more remarkable and iconic views than you get from U.S. 191, access to Jenny Lake and Jackson Lake, great hiking trailheads and a higher probability of seeing the wildlife.
Jenny Lake
You can do a lot with a morning at Jenny Lake. A boat shuttle runs every 15 minutes across the lake and is a pleasant 12-minute way to enjoy the water and take in views of Cascade Canyon and its surrounding mountains. You can forgo the boat ride and hike around the lake instead, but I recommend at least taking the shuttle to the far side of the lake to beat the crowds that are apt to show up by mid-morning. You can always skip the ride back and hike 2.4 miles around the lake back to the parking lot instead.
The boat will deposit you on the western shore from where you can make the 2.2 mile hike to Inspiration Point, stopping at Hidden Falls on the way up. The trail gains elevation fast, so it’s at minimum mildly strenuous, depending on your level of fitness.
You can rent kayaks and canoes back at the boat dock if you want to spend some extra time at Jenny Lake, and SUPs are allowed with a permit from the park. There’s a small store with snacks and souvenirs and restroom facilities near the Jenny Lake parking lot.
Jackson Lake Lodge
Once you’re done at Jenny Lake, keep heading north on Grand Teton Park Road, but make sure to stop every so often and take some photos. There are a bounty of scenic pull-offs along the road, and be advised reader, you cannot hit them all. But at least stop and some of them. One scenic spot that I regret we missed is Signal Mountain Road and the overlooks toward the top.
Eventually Grand Teton Park Road will T-bone U.S. 191 again. Take the left toward Yellowstone and stop at Jackson Lake Lodge for a late lunch if you didn’t pack a picnic for the day or at least for a snack. The lodge was completed in 1955, and the luncheonette-style Pioneer Grill is reminiscent of the time and offers all three meals and snacks. The food is middling, but the shakes looked delicious (and they offer one in the regional flavor of huckleberry). The common area of hte lodge offers a beautifully framed take on the Teton views and a comfy spot to digest your meal.
Oxbow Bend
From Jackson Lake Lodge, turn back south on U.S. 191 to complete your scenic driving loop. Soon after you pass the Grand Teton Park Road intersection, you’ll encounter the Oxbow Bend pull-off, arguably the crown jewel of all the pull-offs in the park. (See featured image)
You get a little of everything in your camera frame here: the craggy mountains, their reflection in a calm pool of the Snake River, wide grassy plains and occasionally some wildlife. This means you’re also likely to find a metric ton of wild scenery and wildlife photographers, so you may have to take a little time to get just the right shot.
Dornan’s
Dornan’s is a family owned outpost of fun located just outside the southern pay gate on Grand Teton Park Road, and it’s got a little bit of everything: cabins, a store, a wine shop, bike and canoe rentals, gas and a couple of dining options. All of these are good, but most important of all, it’s got a rooftop deck above its Pizza and Pasta Co. on which you can enjoy local beer, tasty pizza and yet another jaw-dropping view of the Tetons. Time it to be up there as the sun is setting in the afternoon. It’s the perfect spot to recover from a long day of touring.
Day 2
Rent a Bike
You’ve already spent a day seeing the Tetons, now it’s time to ditch the car for a bit and immerse yourself in your surroundings. You could do more hiking, but I highly recommend renting a bike and taking advantage of the paths leading into the park and up to Jenny Lake. Find some sandwiches before you set out and pack a backpack. Adventure Sports at Dornan’s can hook you up with hybrid bikes ideal for casually making the 8-mile trip to Jenny Lake, where you can enjoy a picnic lunch. (You can buy drinks and snacks at the Jenny Lake store.) If you’re an avid road cyclist, then visit Hoback Sports in Jackson to get set up on a rental road bike and pedal the 20 miles along the roadside bike path through the National Elk Refuge and on to Jenny Lake and back for a pleasant workout. Either way, you’ll be treated to fairly flat paths separated from the road and traffic.
Mormon Row
That iconic shot of the Grand Tetons — you know the one, the one with the barn in the foreground and the mountains towering behind? — that can be seen from the spot in the park known as Mormon Row. It’s an easy drive from Dornan’s down Antelope Flats Road to reach what’s left of the homesteads built by Mormon settlers in the 1890s. There’s a small parking lot at the edge of the road near the John Moulton barn and his family’s pink stucco house.
Once you’ve taken a photo from every angle and exposure, turn south down the road across from the parking lot to drive past other remaining Mormon Row structures and the buffalo herd that is often grazing beyond. This is a great spot to get some wildlife photography, but remember to let those buffalo be. The Park Service requires you to be at least 25 yards away from them at any given time. Continue down the gravel road until you get to Gros Vente Road (pro tip to sound like a local: it’s pronounced Grow Vahn). Turn right to head back to the highway.
Moose-Wilson Road
Now that we’re on the topic of wildlife, it’s safe to say your odds for encountering wildlife around the Tetons are high. You now know where to find the buffalo. The Elk Refuge is primarily a spot for the nearby elk to spend their winter months, so it can be hit or miss depending on the time of year, but you might find them grazing along the Snake River or other watering holes during the warmer months. Pronghorn antelope and deer are common too.
Lauren and I had little luck spotting any wildlife during our first day and a half in the park and presumed the wildlife were wrapping up peak operations for the season just as the park was doing. It was late afternoon, and we decided to take the scenic route back to Jackson via Moose-Wilson Road, which splits from Teton Park Road near Dornan’s and heads toward Teton Village (where the Jackson Hole ski resort is located) and the Wilson community.
As it turned out, the animals didn’t want us to leave without saying hello. The impending dusk meant dinner time for many of them. We encountered an antelope, deer and two black bears. And for the grand finale, we were tipped off by a pack of cars in a small parking lot and a wildlife control officer that a family of moose were a short hike away. We trudged quietly down the path a ways and found a small crowd gathered along the edge of a drop off and, sure enough, the moose … meese … meeses … down drinking in the creek below.
Other Stuff
When I Went
The second week of September and in the middle of the week. It was the first week outside of peak season, which means shorter operating hours for some park services and some features at Dornan’s. It also meant thinner crowds and cooler temperatures than the summer months, and I thought it was well worth trading longer hours for fewer people. Once you hit the middle of October, things get trickier as roads close for the winter and services get cut more drastically, and you’ll be mostly out of luck until about April.
Where I Slept
Mountain Modern Hotel in Jackson, and I highly recommend it. The Ace Hotel chain and others have inspired a number of spinoff properties, particular across the West, where aging motor lodges are renovated in the style of hipster chic. Don’t take that as an insult. You get adorably furnished, comfortable rooms with some surprising amenities at an affordable price, which is nice when you’re not rich but not into the hostel scene.
Where I Ate (besides Dornan’s)
Splurges: (as in, someone else was paying)
Orsetto Italian Bar and Eatery
In Betweeners
Budget
Cowboy Coffee (and Nom Nom Doughnuts)
How I Got Around
The three major domestic air carriers have multiple flights into JAC daily, and Frontier has infrequent flights too. I arrived and departed on United, with stops in Chicago and Denver.
I reserved a sedan from Enterprise ahead of time, which was a clutch decision. Rental agencies keep their cars in a small parking lot at the airport, which is extremely fast and convenient but also means they can’t keep a lot of stock around. When I stopped at the counter to get my keys, most rental companies were turning away anyone who didn’t have a reservation for lack of available vehicles. The sedan was fine for summer touring, but I’d recommend at least a small SUV for the winter.